Acorn Floor Sanding, have developed a process specifically designed to reduce or even eliminate these “inconveniences”
We’ve broken down the floor sanding process, in a multitude of steps required for the completion of the project.
Typical responses might include: to repair damage to the floor; to change the colour; to change the finish sheen; or to protect the investment (preserving and restoring the beauty of a wood floor found under the carpet that was removed, for example).
Yes, there are even more reasons, however, the main reason to sand a floor, whether new or existing, is to give beauty to a renewable resource that can usually be repaired instead of replaced
The First cut
The initial sanding with a coarse-grit paper creates deep scratches
The second cut
A medium-grit paper removes the deep scratches created by the first cut, leaving shallower scratches
The Third cut
A fine-grit paper removes the shallower scratches left by the second cut.
Checking for loose blocks, floorboards, nails and gaps
Replace the blocks or floorboards where necessary. Hammer back the old nails or replace with new nails.
Fill the gaps between the blocks or floor boards with resin and sawdust if required.
Oil-based pigmented wiping stains are probably the most common.
The pigments are in suspension so the material must be stirred regularly during use to maintain a uniform colour.
The pigment collects in the open pores of the wood and thus accentuates the grain pattern and alters the wood colour.
Pigmented stains are usually applied by brushing.
After the stain has penetrated the surface and the desired effect is achieved, all excess is wiped off with clean rags.
In most cases, it is preferable to maintain the natural colour of wood floors by using a clear finish.
However, if a colour different than the natural wood colour is desired or if the natural wood colour is too variable, a stain may be used.
Stains do not penetrate wood deeply, and they may fade with continued exposure to bright light.
Open grained woods such as oak, ash, and walnut will take stain easily while the close grained woods such as maple, and to a lesser extent, birch and beech, will take stain much more slowly.
Soft-woods do not stain well since the less dense springwood easily stains dark whereas the dense latewood will hardly stain at all.
Oil-Based floor lacquer-
Oil-based floor lacquer is applied in two or three coats and is available in gloss, semi-gloss and satin sheens.
The downside to this type of finish is the drying time -- up to 8 hours for each coat.
You will also need adequate ventilation. And, keep in mind that oil-based finishes do yellow with age.
Acorn Floor Sanding provides a wide array of services within the wood floor restoration market.
From new floors to restoration, repairs to maintenance, we can offer a tailor made solution to fit your needs.
Wood Floor Finishes
When choosing the right type of finish for your wood floors, consider your lifestyle and maintenance preferences.
All wood floors will require routine maintenance, such as sweeping or dust mopping, to keep them looking beautiful and new, but different wood flooring finishes will have a big impact on how you care for your floor long-term, as well as how your floor will look in the years to come.
Water-Based Floor lacquer –
A very good finish dries quickly and cleans up easily with soap and water. Water-based floor lacquer has less odour than oil-based floor lacquer and doesn't yellow over time.
Stress, big mess, lots of money and time invested by you, the homeowner.
With our expert knowledge and
professionalism we can restore your wood floor
Similar, maybe, but not the same.
Whether you like light-coloured wood or dark, a satin finish or high-gloss,